1. Reach an altitude of 1,280m! A series of breathtaking views await you even before you reach your destination on Hokkaido Prefectural Road 291.

Tokachidake Onsen is a hot spring resort known to avid hot spring enthusiasts. Located on the slopes of the Tokachidake mountain range, which forms the "roof" of Hokkaido, it consists of only three hot spring inns. Boasting an altitude of 1,280m, its secluded location is its main attraction.

Normally, roads of this altitude class are closed during winter, but surprisingly, Tokachidake Onsen remains accessible even in winter. Of the Prefectural Road 966 that runs from Shirogane Onsen on the north side, the section from Bogakudai to Shiroganeso is closed, but Prefectural Road 291 that runs from Kamifurano on the south side remains open.

The roads have been cleared of snow, but they are still icy, and there are many steep inclines and hairpin turns. We'll drive carefully in our car equipped with snow tires as we make our way to our accommodation.

Then, after passing the fork with Prefectural Road 966, and with only 2km remaining to our accommodation, the beautiful snow-covered mountains came into view. It was the Tokachi Mountain Range, composed of peaks reaching approximately 2,000m in elevation. I enjoyed the drive to the very end, captivated by the contrast between the faintly visible blue sky and the pure white mountain range.

2. "A place like this in Hokkaido!?" Enjoy the mountain scenery that feels unlike anywhere else in Japan.

The Tokachidake Onsen "Yumoto Ryounkaku," which we're introducing today, is located in a place that might make you wonder, "Is there really a hot spring inn in a place like this!?" It's a small, mountain lodge-style hot spring inn with a total of 14 rooms.

Behind me, the snow-capped peaks of the Tokachi Mountain Range loomed, and looking back in the direction I had come up, the endless plains of central Hokkaido stretched before me. Just having made it here filled me with a sense of accomplishment.

Even so, there seemed to be a lot more cars than I expected for such a small inn. So I headed towards the spot where people were gathered, and there, waiting for me, was a breathtaking view that made me gasp in amazement.

There stood the Tokachi Mountain Range like a wall. From Furano-dake (1912m), which forms the southern end, to Kamihorokametokku-yama (1920m) and Tokachi-dake (2077m), they rose majestically.

In stark contrast to the rugged volcanic landscape during snow-free seasons, this scene was a beautiful, picturesque landscape of pure white and clarity. I was captivated by the mountainous atmosphere that reminded me of the authentic Alps, as if I were in a different country.

The room I stayed in was simple, with a tatami floor, a bed, and a sofa. It had an unpretentious, retro atmosphere, which I suppose evokes a sense of travel. Basic amenities such as a yukata (Japanese robe) and toothbrush were all provided.

3. Enjoy a dreamlike moment at "Tokachidake Onsen Ryounkaku"

"We don't know if the weather will be good tomorrow!" So we hurried to check in and enjoyed the long-awaited moment, even if only for a short while. It was an open-air hot spring bath with free-flowing natural spring water, where we could soak while gazing at the snow-covered mountains.

Ryounkaku Yumoto has two large public baths, which are switched between men and women at different times of the day. Both feature rustic rock baths that jut out over cliffs. The spring water is characterized by its reddish-brown, viscous texture and a comfortable temperature of approximately 40 degrees Celsius, perfect for soaking for extended periods.

As I warmed up and immersed myself in the breathtaking view before me, I felt as if all my daily fatigue and stress were being blown away with every sigh I let out. I alternated between the hotter indoor bath and the hot spring, and was thoroughly healed by the onsen.

After my bath, I decided to put on some warmer clothes and go outside, just as the sun was setting. The heavy snow on the trees really speaks to the isolated nature I was in.

From orange to a soft pink, I spent a truly extraordinary time watching the sky change, camera in hand.

Enjoying the scenery can make you hungry, right? So, let me introduce you to another highlight of Tokachidake Onsen's "Yumoto Ryounkaku": its luxurious meals.

4. Kamifurano pork is exquisite! A Japanese meal packed with local delicacies.

Dinner is served in the restaurant on the first floor. The space, with its warm wooden interior typical of a mountain lodge, was very comfortable. Dinner consists of a Japanese set meal featuring local delicacies.

There were so many appetizers, it made me want to drink more beer! Whenever I visit Hokkaido, I always crave the limited-edition Sapporo Classic. Despite its remote mountain location, the abundance of fish was truly luxurious.

The salmon in cream sauce is especially rich and absolutely delicious! It's served with plenty of local vegetables.

The highlight of dinner is "Kamifurano Pork." Based on the concept of "producing safe and delicious pork that we ourselves would want to eat," this local brand of pork is produced with meticulous attention to its feed, resulting in firm meat and a reputation for its rich flavor.

The more you chew, the more flavor comes out, and when combined with the rich sauce, it's so delicious you'll want to gobble down rice. In the end, I ate three bowls of rice! I'm grateful to be able to enjoy such a luxurious meal in this place where it must be difficult to transport ingredients!

5. Relax before sunrise. Enjoy an extraordinary snow-viewing bath!

The next morning, I went to the hot springs before sunrise. The men's and women's baths switched at 20 PM, so I enjoyed a different open-air bath than the one I had the day before.

The weather forecast for that day was snow followed by sunshine. So, it had been a blizzard in the morning, but the massive rocks provided shelter from both the snow and the wind. It felt like I was relaxing in my own secret hideaway amidst the vastness of nature.

I soaked in the rich, free-flowing hot spring water, enjoying the well-established mineral deposits clinging to the rocks and the lingering smell of iron.

There's another change of baths at 8am, with separate bathing times for men and women. Since I'm staying at a secluded hot spring resort that I don't get to visit often, I headed back to the rustic, panoramic bath that I used yesterday.

Unfortunately, the weather wasn't good, so we couldn't see the mountain range like yesterday, but we enjoyed a magical time as the sun gradually shone through the flurries of snow.

Many guests staying at Tokachidake Onsen's "Yumoto Ryounkaku" enjoy ski touring early in the morning and check out early. If you want to relax and fully enjoy the secluded hot spring, this time of day is probably the best.

6. Get your energy from breakfast! A luxurious buffet.

Now, it's time to have breakfast and recharge. Surprisingly, breakfast at Tokachidake Onsen's "Yumoto Ryounkaku" is an obanzai (Kyoto-style home cooking) buffet! There's a wide variety of dishes, and you can choose between rice and bread.

Every dish had a nostalgic flavor, and I ate it all with gusto. The back of the restaurant is glass-walled, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding snowy landscape.

After the meal, sipping coffee while gazing at the pristine white landscape was a moment of pure bliss.

Final thoughts

So, what did you think? Initially, our goal was simply to stay at an inn, but by the end of the trip, it had turned into quite an adventurous journey. Please do visit Tokachidake Onsen, where you can enjoy breathtaking winter scenery and superb hot springs!

Yuhei Tonosho, a cyclist and photographer who delves deep into Japan

Born in 1993 in Toyota City, Aichi Prefecture. Graduated from Doshisha University, Faculty of Letters, Department of Cultural History and Department of English Literature. While working as a salaryman, he is a travel writer who travels all over Japan by bicycle and mountain climbing. He captures and shares the changing seasons of Japan with all his senses.

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