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[Hakodate] Tracing the history of the romantic Bakumatsu period! What kind of place was the Hakodate Magistrate's Office?

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Last updated: September 11, 2018

函館奉行所

From the Edo period to the Meiji era. Goryokaku, located in Hakodate City, Hokkaido, was the final battleground of the Boshin War during the end of the Edo period.
At the heart of it all was the "Hakodate Magistrate's Office," which we will be introducing today.

As the center of Ezo (Hokkaido) in the late Meiji period,
Furthermore, it was a historical site during the final stages of the Boshin War, serving as a base for the former shogunate forces, including Enomoto Takeaki and Hijikata Toshizo, and was the site of the Battle of Hakodate.

The Hakodate Magistrate's Office was restored in 2010, approximately 140 years after its dismantling following the Boshin War.
We went to investigate what kind of information can be found in different places!
Please feel free to use this as a reference!

<Table of Contents>
1. The History of Goryokaku
2. Let's experience history inside the Hakodate Magistrate's Office.
3. Details and access information for the Hakodate Magistrate's Office
Final thoughts

1. The History of Goryokaku

First, let me briefly explain the process leading up to the restoration of Goryokaku and the Hakodate Magistrate's Office.
I think you'll gain a deeper understanding if you learn about the history!

函館奉行所

<History of Hakodate and the Hakodate Magistrate's Office>

・1854
March: The shogunate concludes the Treaty of Peace and Amity between Japan and the United States. *The decision is made to open Hakone and Shimoda ports.
April: Perry's fleet enters port.
In June, the shogunate established the Hakodate Magistrate's Office in what is now Motomachi Park, Hakodate City.
・1864
The Hakodate Magistrate's Office relocated to Goryokaku.
・1867
October: Restoration of Imperial Rule *The Tokugawa Shogunate collapses.
・1869
May: End of the Hakodate War – Goryokaku Fortress surrendered to the new government.
*After the Hakodate War, it was managed by the Ministry of Military Affairs of the Meiji government.
・1871
In January, the Hokkaido Development Commission headquarters moved to Sapporo, and most of the associated buildings, including the Hakodate Magistrate's Office, were demolished.
・1914 It will be opened to the public as "Goryokaku Park".
・2010 The restoration of the Hakodate Magistrate's Office has been completed.
函館奉行所

Goryokaku was the site of the final battle during the Boshin War after the Meiji Restoration.
The Hakodate Magistrate's Office, located in that area, was an office of the Edo shogunate established when Hakodate Port was opened.

During the "Hakodate War" of 1868-69, Enomoto Takeaki and Hijikata Toshizo barricaded themselves in the city and fought against the new government, making it a historical stage.
And with the end of the war, it was handed over to the new government. However, it seems it was not used as a government office until it was dismantled.

When Goryokaku was relocated to Sapporo, most of the timber was taken with it, and it disappeared in 1871, just seven years after its completion. However, in March 1952, Goryokaku was designated a "National Special Historic Site," and the Hakodate Magistrate's Office restoration plan proceeded as part of the Basic Plan for the Preservation and Development of the Goryokaku Ruins Special Historic Site.
Construction began in 2006. It took four years to restore it, and it was completed in 2010. After approximately 140 years since its demolition, it has reappeared at Goryokaku.

Goryokaku, which was the stage for events during the late Edo period, is now Goryokaku Park, a place of relaxation that showcases the beauty of each season.
Furthermore, the magistrate's office also gained popularity as a tourist attraction in Hakodate, and it began to attract a constant stream of tourists.

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2. Let's experience history inside the Hakodate Magistrate's Office.

Okay, sorry to have kept you waiting!
Let me show you what the inside of the Hakodate Magistrate's Office is like.

函館奉行所

Here, the building has been restored to its original state based on historical architectural techniques and documents, including the timber and construction methods used at the time.
Because the restoration work is documented on video and other materials, architects also visit to see the techniques used.

函館奉行所

First, you take off your shoes and go inside, and the first thing you see is a television.
You can learn about the events of that time over a period of about two minutes.
It's very easy to read because it concisely summarizes the situation at the time, from Perry's arrival to the subsequent prosperity!

函館奉行所

The museum is divided into several zones: a guidance zone, a reconstructed zone, a historical discovery zone, a video theater, and an architectural restoration zone, making it very easy to understand and navigate!

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And this is the recreation zone.
From the front of the image, we see Room 4, Room 3, Room 2, and Room 1, where the magistrate sat.
Incidentally, the photo was taken in the fourth room. It's quite a distance to the magistrate's office, isn't it?

When you put it all together, it's a massive hall with a whopping 72 tatami mats! Apparently, it was the magistrate's office back then.
The faithful reproduction of the building's appearance at the time, based on historical documents, demonstrates just how advanced the techniques of traditional Japanese architecture were.

函館奉行所

At the magistrate's office, several guides are stationed at key locations who provide detailed explanations about the history.
The guide who was waiting for us in the first room gave us a very clear explanation of what used to take place in this grand hall!
Now, let me tell you a little bit about what that guide told us.

函館奉行所

This first room is said to be a room that only the top three people in the magistrate's office were allowed to enter.
The best photo spot is the second tatami mat from the alcove at the very back.
In other words, that was the spot where the magistrate sat!

Now, let's take a picture pretending you're the magistrate.

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Next, we'll head towards the historical discovery zone.
But! I discovered something.

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Despite being such a magnificent building, why are the walls painted white...? Why?!

Apparently, further inside this area there was a weapons storage room, a main reception room, and even a back room where the mistress of the house would have stayed.
However, since it wasn't included in the documents, we didn't attempt to reproduce it.

They said that if you occasionally come across such walls, you should think, "Ah, there must have been some kind of building beyond this point."

函館奉行所

Now, in the history discovery zone, you can learn about the state of Hakodate during the late Edo period.
The contents written on the long, narrow panels are a surprise for those who visit, but they clearly explain the lives of those who lived during that time and fought with a sense of mission.

函館奉行所

It seems that Goryokaku was an easy target for artillery attacks because of its good visibility.
It's terrifying to even imagine being hit by such a large ball.

函館奉行所

And here's something I personally would really like you to see!
This area is home to many famous people who were active and made a name for themselves during the late Edo period.

The only person I recognized immediately from the photos was Toshizo Hijikata (embarrassing, I know...), but the exhibit is designed like game pieces, and when you place a figure on it, a panel appears showing what kind of achievements that person accomplished.
There are many people without whom Hakodate might not be what it is today! So please give it a try♪

函館奉行所

The video theater showcases ancient architectural techniques and construction methods.
This is what architects scrutinize!

Hakodate Magistrate's Office, which attracts many repeat visitors, is a place where you can not only learn about history but also see how advanced Japanese technology is.
If you have some free time, please feel free to stop by.

函館奉行所

Next, in the architectural restoration zone, you can experience firsthand the architectural techniques and the types of wood used.

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For example, the tree closest to us has a rectangle with an arrow pointing upwards, right?
If you fit it in right next to it...!!
Wow! It won't move!!

You can also try out and experience several other methods of building structures without using nails.
This is a place where you'll think, "Ah, so that's how it is!" and feel completely satisfied, so you definitely shouldn't miss this section.

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There are also areas where you can try out popular quiz corners and other activities on computers, so give them a go! Of course, people of all ages can participate♪

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And there's a large pot placed near the exit.
If you take a closer look at this...

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Can you see it?! There are some words written on it!!
This pot apparently was buried near the exit of the current magistrate's office, and it was carefully collected and restored.

What meaning is hidden within those characters? When I asked...
That remains unknown, apparently.

3. Details and access information for the Hakodate Magistrate's Office

函館奉行所

[Facility Details]
Address:44-3 Goryokakucho, Hakodate City
Phone: 0138-51-2864
Open Hours
9:00 AM - 5:00 PM (November - March)
9:00 AM - 5:00 PM (November - March)
Admission fee: General admission 500 yen / Students 250 yen / Preschool children free
*Group discounts available
Closed: Year-end and New Year holidays (December 31th to January 3rd)
*Temporary closures may occur.
Official HP:http://www.hakodate-bugyosho.jp/index.html

Final thoughts

函館奉行所~Image: A drum that tells the time~

The four seasons at Goryokaku are truly beautiful.
But if there is a deep history hidden within it, I would definitely like you to open that door.

The Hakodate Magistrate's Office, which we visited for this interview, is a place where the romance of the late Edo period is condensed to an extent that cannot be fully described.
I'm sure that the moment you step inside, you'll be transported back in time to that era.
So, when you come, please be sure to take your time and look around at your leisure!

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