Salmon, a taste of autumn and winter! Locally recommended cooking methods
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- Last updated: September 6, 2018
Table of contents
1. The taste of autumn and winter! The allure of salmon

Hokkaido boasts an abundance of delicious seafood, but if we're talking about what's representative of autumn and winter, it's salmon!
Salmon return to their home rivers in the fall to spawn.
The males are fatty, and the females have lots of delicious eggs in their bellies.
Salmon is not only enjoyed in the autumn when it's in season, but it has also long been an indispensable preserved food during the winter in Hokkaido.
So, this time, I'd like to introduce some recommended salmon dishes that you should definitely try when traveling to Hokkaido during the autumn and winter salmon season.
<Table of Contents>
1. The taste of autumn and winter! The allure of salmon
2. Sanpei soup
3. Chanchan-yaki
4. Kelp rolls
5. Ruibe
6. Salmon roe marinated in soy sauce
Final thoughts
1. The taste of autumn and winter! The allure of salmon

Salmon can be found in supermarkets all over Japan throughout the year, but the most delicious is said to be that caught from autumn to winter.
Salmon born in rivers within Hokkaido head out to sea in search of abundant food.
Salmon, having spent several years in the ocean and grown large, return to their birthplace rivers in the fall to reproduce.
Therefore, the males arrive in large groups along the rivers and coastlines of Hokkaido, full of nutrients and fat, while the females carry many eggs in their bellies.
What makes salmon even more delicious is the traditional cooking method of Hokkaido.
2. Sanpei soup

One well-known way to prepare salmon is to eat it as a warm soup called "Sanpei-jiru."
While various types of fish are used in Sanpei-jiru, salmon is definitely the best in autumn and winter!
This dish allows you to enjoy the rich flavor of salmon by including not only the fillets but also the bones and scraps.
Since root vegetables such as daikon radish and carrots are also added, it's incredibly nutritious.
Sanpei-jiru, seasoned only with kelp broth and the saltiness of salmon, is a dish that allows you to savor the delicious flavors of the sea in Hokkaido.
3. Chanchan-yaki

Chanchan-yaki is a dish where you can enjoy lots of vegetables along with salmon.
The basic recipe involves placing bite-sized pieces of cabbage, onions, and mushrooms on top of half a salmon fillet, and then seasoning it with a sweet and savory sauce made from miso, sake, and sugar.
Apparently, some families add garlic or chili peppers to give it a different flavor.

Salmon chanchan-yaki is a dish that is cooked on a griddle, so it is popular for outdoor activities such as camping.
Eating Chanchan-yaki outdoors will warm you up.
Also, it's often made indoors using a hot plate, and since you can make a large quantity at once, it's recommended for parties and other gatherings.
4. Kelp rolls

Similar to Sanpei-jiru soup, this kelp roll allows you to enjoy two of Hokkaido's seafood delicacies: salmon and kelp.
This dish involves wrapping salmon in kelp and then simmering it in soy sauce, sugar, and mirin. It's a common item in Osechi Ryori (traditional New Year's food) in Hokkaido.
Some restaurants even use the salmon's backbone.
The salmon bones, simmered until tender in a pressure cooker, are so soft they practically melt in your mouth. And they're packed with nutrients!

The layered rolls, which have salmon meat and bones sandwiched between layers of kelp, are also highly recommended.
This konbu roll contains more salmon than usual, giving it a more pronounced salmon flavor.
It's simmered in soy sauce and mirin, making it a perfect accompaniment to rice.
5. Ruibe

Ruibe is a preserved food created by the Ainu people.
The name is a combination of the Ainu words "ru," which means to melt, and "ibe," which means food.
The Ainu people apparently froze fresh salmon for preservation, then cut it, thawed it, and either cooked it or ate it as is.
Generally, the most common way to prepare salmon is to eat it as frozen raw salmon fillets, rather than having it cooked.
It is said that, compared to regular sashimi, the moisture and fat are moderately removed as it melts, resulting in an enhanced flavor.
6. Salmon roe marinated in soy sauce

In supermarkets in Hokkaido, "fresh salmon roe" appears on the shelves in the fall.
For people in Hokkaido, salmon roe isn't something you buy; it's something you make at home.
I buy a lot of salmon roe at this time of year when it's cheap, marinate it in soy sauce, and freeze it for later use.
By soaking salmon roe in lukewarm water at around 40 degrees Celsius, the roe will easily separate, and then you can marinate the roe in soy sauce or other seasonings overnight to complete the dish.
Since seasoning varies from household to household, people's preferred tastes will also differ.

Salmon roe marinated in soy sauce is delicious on its own, but it goes exceptionally well with rice!
There are many variations, such as making an ikura donburi (rice bowl with salmon roe) or combining it with salmon sashimi to make a seafood oyakodon (rice bowl with salmon and salmon roe).
By pickling a large batch at home and freezing it, you can enjoy inexpensive salmon roe bowls and seafood bowls all year round.
Final thoughts
We've introduced salmon, a representative autumn and winter delicacy of Hokkaido.
These are all traditional Hokkaido dishes, but many of them can be made at home.
Many of these dishes can be found in restaurants throughout Hokkaido, so next time you visit Hokkaido in the fall or winter, be sure to try them!
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